I have a 6 week old baby and it’s winter.  How can we get outside and be sure my baby is warm enough?

The guidelines for dressing a baby for cold weather is the same as the guidelines for dressing an adult.

Dress Baby in Layers

When you are dressing your baby for cold, plan on dressing him in layers.  Start with a wicking base layer.  Follow with an insulating layer.  End with a waterproof, windproof outer layer.  If this sounds like a familiar formula, well you dress a baby the same as you would dress an adult.

Avoid Cotton Clothing

Babies, as well as adults, should not wear cotton clothing in the snow.  When cotton gets wet, it loses it’s insulative properties. 

For the base layer, Halo (the sleep sack people) have come out with a Technical Comfort System line of infant clothing made from Cool Max fabric.  These are available as footed coveralls, onesies, or 2 piece sets starting in size 0-3 months.

The easiest insulating layer would be something like this Fleece Blanket Sleeper by Little Me.

For an outer layer, you are looking for waterproof and windproof.  You also want to look for something that has an attatched hood, pullover mittens and booties.  Columbia Sportswear has several good options like their Snow Powder Bunting or Snow Powder Down Bunting .  These both come in sizes from 6-24 months.

Perhaps the most important piece of clothing for your baby is his hat.  As with adults, most of a baby’s heat is lost through the head.  This is actually more true of babies because their heads are proportionately larger to their bodies.  You can layer hats the same way you layer clothing.  Consider getting a fleece hat with a velcro chin strap to make sure baby’s had stays on baby’s head.

Use One extra layer for Baby

 One of the best guidelines that I have gotten for dressing a baby is to dress her in one layer more than you would need to be comfortable.  If you are going out snowshoeing or cross country skiing, you need to dress your baby for going out and being sedentry.  You may be working up a sweat, but your baby is probably just resting.

Wear your baby in a Wrap

Finally, my favorite cool-weather accessory for baby is my baby wrap.  This is a long swath of fabric designed for wearing your baby.  While you are wearing your baby, he will benefit from your body heat (and you from his).  As a Mom, I can relax so much more about whether or not he is too cold when I am wearing my baby snuggled up against my chest.

If you want to make a wrap, MamaToTo.com has instructions on how to make (no sewing required) a wrap. For outdoor, cold weather use, you can even make a wrap out of fleece. Choose a plain colored fabric and you might even be able to get Dad to wear his baby. (My husband likes wearing our baby because he likes the extra body heat).

If you are not crafty, the Moby D wrap is a good choice to wear your baby.  The Moby Original is made from jersey cotton, but the Moby D has a fleece (or silk–your choice) panel in the center for extra warmth.

Moby has provided good instructions on how to use a baby wrap .  For going outside, I prefer the hug hold (for a young baby, check out the newborn hug hold).

Other Considerations

While babies can get cold quickly, they can also overheat quickly.  A sweating baby will quickly get chilled in cold weather.  To check if your baby is too warm, touch the back of his neck and see if it is damp with perspiration.  If he is sweating, remove a layer of clothing.

If you take your baby out often, eventually you will have to do a cold-weather diaper change.  Chose your baby’s clothing so that you can change his diapers quickly and with minimal undressing.

Having a new baby doesn’t mean you have to stay indoors all winter long.  Following the basic rules for winter dressing and taking some basic precautions can open a winter wonderland to you and your baby.

With spring on its way, most of the outdoor retailers are trying to shed some winter gear for reduced prices. Now is a good time to start looking in to buying that winter weather gear in preparation for next winter. Here in Idaho, I could probably get a few more months of use out of some good winter clothes before pulling out the swim suits and kayaks.

Last time I went out snowshoeing, I wrote that I was having layering issues with my clothing. In that outing, I was wearing snowmobile coveralls, and I was warm by the end of my trek through the snow.

Think Layers

SHREK: For your information, there’s a lot more to ogres than people think.
DONKEY: Example?
SHREK: Example? Okay. Uh… ogres are like onions.
DONKEY: They stink?
SHREK: Yes. No!
DONKEY: Oh, they make you cry?
SHREK: No!
DONKEY: Oh, you leave them out in the sun, they get all brown and start sprouting little white hairs.
SHREK: No! Layers! Onions have layers. Ogres have layers. Onions have layers. You get it? We both have layers.
DONKEY: Oh… you both have layers… You know, not everybody like onions. Cakes! Everybody likes cakes. Cakes have layers.
SHREK: I don’t care what everyone likes. Ogres are not like cakes… You dunce, irritating, miniature beast of burden. Ogres are like onions. End of story. Bye bye. See ya later…

In researching, it looks like a good basic snowshoeing outfit would include something like this:

• Base Layer top and bottom wicking/insulating made of silk, wool, or a wicking synthetic (like Under Armour ColdGear)
• Insulating Layer top and bottom made of fleece or wool
• Outer shell top and bottom that is windproof and waterproof. Ideally made of a tear-resistant, rip-stop material, loose enough not to bind your movement, and is breathable.
• Accessories Hat, gloves (I like fingerless liner gloves with wool mittens over top).
• Foot wear Waterproof boots, wicking sock liner, several pairs of wool socks (make sure the outer socks are big enough that they won’t restrict blood flow).
• Optional for colder weather, or really back country hikes, a puffy vest would be a nice addition to keep your core-body temperature up while allowing enough cool air to keep you from sweating.

photo by James Jordan CC-By-SA

Think Thrift Store

For starting out, the most expensive part will be buying that base layer. The pants run from $35+, and I haven’t worked up the courage to price the tops yet. I’ve never really seen them at the thrift store, but maybe I can find a cheaper (non-name brand) version at the army-navy store.

I can usually find synthetic fleece tops and pants at the thrift store for around $2 (or less). I actually have some horrendously ugly bright blue fleece pajama bottoms. In spite of what the outdoor retailers would like you to think, hiking and snowshoeing are not fashion shows. Otherwise, I have seen fleece tops and bottoms for sale at about $9 a piece, new.

A really good outer shell suit will probably run around $100. I can probably find some windbreaker pants for a couple of dollars at the thrift store, and I already have an anorak nylon pullover. I can put about $7 into a can of scotch guard and have a waterproof outer shell that will last me for this winter and keep me going until I save up for a nice waterproof, breathable, windproof, rip-stop, costs-an-arm-and-a-leg, rain suit. Maybe I just need to find a supplier of sil-nylon and make my own light weight rain gear.

This weekend was taken up with more work towards our Christmas camping trip.  Saturday evening, I spent 6 hours wandering stores looking for outdoor gear on my shopping list.  I bought a lot of good stuff–sleeping pad, waterproof matches, good water bottles, etc–without spending too much money.  At least it wasn’t too expensive until I stopped at the book store to look at their selection of books on winter camping.

Today I intended to publish a winter camping gear list, but I started reading my new books instead.  I confess I feel overwhelmed and insufficiently prepared for winter camping.  I wonder how much more I need to spend to be ready to go out winter camping.

Yesterday we got about 1 foot of snow over a 24 hour period.  Today the temperature has warmed up a lot, and I am facing the fact that winter can kill you.

What I really want is to embrace the wilderness as home, but in the “comfort” of my apartment, nature doesn’t seem very friendly.

I just have to remind myself that people have been going out on winter camping trip for hundreds of years–long before goretex was invented.

This is part 5 of a 5 part series on buying snowshoes. For more information, make sure you check out parts 1-4 of the series.
If you enjoy this series Subscribe to Wild Bound so you don’t miss a single article.

Part 1:Snowshoeing Vocabulary

There is some specialized vocabulary in any sport and snowshoeing is no exception. Check out part 1 of this series to familiarize yourself with the jargon before heading out to the gear shop.

Part 2: Your Purpose

The thing you want to decide when you are buying snowshoes is what kind of snowshoeing you will be doing. There are four main styles of snowshoes: racing, recreation, hiking, and back country/mountaineering. You should select your snowshoes to fit your purpose.

Part 3: Snowshoe Shapes

Snowshoe tails come in three main shapes: pointed, rounded, and tear-dropped. Each of these shapes has its own benefits and drawbacks. You may want to test snowshoes with different shaped tails to see which shape you like best.

Part 4: Snowshoe Size and Your Weight

Snowshoes are not one-size-fits-all. You should buy the size that is designed for your weight (including clothes, gear, boots, pack, and anything else you will be carrying when you go out snowshoeing). The size guidelines are approximate, and you may need to use a size larger or a size smaller based on the local snow conditions. Your local gear shop would be the best place to determine your sizing needs.

That’s all for selecting snowshoes. At first glance it seems complicated and a bit overwhelming, but after some research, I am ready to face this with confidence. All I need now is some snow.

Snowshoes come in a variety of sizes. Choosing the ideal size for you is based on your weight (including clothes, boots, pack, and gear). You want to purchase snowshoes that will float when you are carrying all the gear you will need. The added weight will be different if you are just planning on taking day hikes than if you are planning on doing back country camping trips.

If you will be snowshoeing in deep powder, you will need more float and should go up one weight category.

This size and weight chart shows the optimal conditions. Each of the sizes will work okay for 20 pounds above or below the recommended weight range.

Additionally, some women’s snowshoes are sized slightly different. I have merely included standard snowshoe sizes in this chart.

When you think of snowshoeing, you probably imagine someone slogging through the snow with something that looks like wooden tennis rackets strapped to their feet.

Snowshoe designs have come a long way since then.

The basic shapes are rounded, pointed, and tapered (or tear-dropped). These shapes refer to the unique design of the snowshoe tail. Each shape has advantages and disadvantages.

Rounded tails provide maximum flotation and balance, but the wide tail causes awkwardness when you are walking. Rounded snowshoes are best for people who are heavy, or who will be carrying heavy loads.

Pointed snowshoes taper slightly at the back and allow for a more normal gait. The pointed design is not as effective at flotation and can be difficult to balance on. However, you are less likely to trip over your own snowshoes if you are wearing ones with a pointed toe.

Tear-drop shaped snowshoes are unique to Crescent Moon Snowshoes. These snowshoes have a long, skinny taper. The snowshoes are longer overall, but they provide good balance and float. These snowshoes might be a good option for females because they allow a narrower gait while providing float and stability.

While I am usually the kind of person who goes out and buys the gear right away (as opposed to renting stuff), the question of snowshoe shape may lead me to go rent various styles before I choose one to buy. Some stores that rent and sell snowshoes will allow you to rent a pair and then if you decide to buy that style you can apply your rental cost to the purchase price. It’s worth asking about anyways.

There are three basic shapes for snowshoes. The different shapes are designed to allow maneuverability, float, and stability. Each of the shapes have their advantages and drawbacks. Renting snowshoes is a good way to try out different shapes before you commit to a purchase.

The first step in selecting a pair of snowshoes is determining what you will be using your snowshoes for.

Fill in the blank. “I plan on using my snowshoes for ___________.”

Right about now, you might be thinking, “I’m going to use them for Walking on the snow, DUH!”

There are four basic types of snowshoes:  racing, recreational, hiking, and mountaineering/back country. As the names for each type imply, they are used for different styles of snowshoeing.

• Racing-These snowshoes are used for running.  They have a sleek frame that is made from lightweight material.  This snowshoe is designed for running on packed snow or groomed trails.  The narrow size means you won’t float well on top of powdery snow.  Racing snowshoes usually have a special toe cleat for added traction while running
• Recreation–recreation snowshoes are used for gentle walking, like taking a winter walk in the park.  These snowshoes are ideal for flat to rolling terrain.  If you are just wanting to get outside this winter with no intentions to go on steep or icy terrain, recreation snowshoes are probably the best value for you.
• Hiking–For the backpacking enthusiast who wants to enjoy their sport year-round, you will be looking for a hiking snowshoe. These snowshoes are made a bit more ruggedly than the recreational snowshoes and are usually designed for better traction on slightly steeper terrain.
• Back country/Mountaineering–If you are planning on getting out in the back country, you want durable snowshoes that aren’t going to let you down when you are miles away from civilization.  Back country/mountaineering snowshoes usually weigh more than other models, but they are sturdy build and get good traction on a variety of challenging terrains.  Back country snowshoes have heavy duty bindings that are made to fit a bulky hiking boot.  These are more expensive, but necessary if you are planning on getting wild bound this winter.

Each of the four styles of snowshoes have been developed for a specific need.  While the styles may crossover for other purposes, you should buy look for a style that will best fit your needs.  You wouldn’t want to go on a back country camping trip with lightweight racing snowshoes.  Likewise, mountaineering snowshoes would be too bulky for regular running.

By knowing how you will be using your snowshoes most often, you will shop with a purpose and eliminate 3/4 of the snowshoe selection from your decision making process.

This is the first in a series of articles on selecting and purchasing your first pair of snowshoes.

Every sport has its own vocabulary, and snowshoeing is not exception. Decking, lashing, binding, heel lifter? What are those? Crampon, frame? Let’s talk snowshoe vocabulary.

Frame: The frame of the snowshoe is usually made out of aluminum tubing or wood and creates the outer shape of the snowshoe.

Decking (Deck): The snowshoe deck is the flat part that stretches inside the frame. In the past, this was also known as webbing because it was made from rawhide woven together to create a web on the frame. The decking is usually made of urethane, or a similar cold-resistant, heavy duty plastic sheeting. One popular decking material is hypalon PVC tarpulin, the same material that is used for white water rafts.

Bindings (Lashings): The bindings are attached the snowshoe deck and securely strap your boots to the snowshoe. Good bindings are crucial to having a pleasant snowshoeing experience. The two main kinds of bindings are pivoting and spring loaded. We will talk more about the benefits and draw backs of each type of binding later in the series.

heel lifter: is a piece of metal or plastic that lifts off the snowshoe deck underneath your boot heel. This is mostly found on backcountry/mountaineering snowshoes and is used to reduce calf-muscle fatigue when you are tackling steep terrain.

crampons: are used for traction on the snow and ice. They are usually metal pieces that come to a point at end. These points dig into the ice and keep your snowshoes from sliding like skis. These are always helpful on snow, but are critical when trying to snowshoe on steep terrain. Crampons can also be purchased separately to be used with boots only (i.e. for walking on ice when you don’t need snowshoes).

Float: float refers to the amount of weight the snowshoes can handle.  This varies based on snow conditions.  You will need more float for powdery snow than you will for wet-packed snow.

There you go! A quick introduction into the basic vocabulary of snowshoeing. On to picking out your snowshoes

With winter coming, this southern girl is starting to think that it’s a good time to snuggle up by a fire with a cup of hot cocoa and a book, but winter can be a great time to re-explore and re-discover those familiar summer trails. For anyone who enjoys hiking, snowshoeing seems like a great winter alternative, and it has often been said that anyone who can walk can snowshoe.

According to the American Hiking Association, Snowshoeing is a great cross-training, full body exercise that burns mega calories. In fact, snowshoeing at about 3 mph can burn up to 1,000 calories per hour (depending on weight, terrain, and type of snow). That will go a long way to burning off that extra winter weight from Christmas goodies and that extra cup of hot cocoa.

Over the next few weeks, I am will be writing about snowshoeing and getting started with this incredible winter activity.

photo used by permission _e.t CC by-sa